Basic Conversion Steps...

The first thing you’ll want to do is set-up a good work area that can remain undisturbed by others for a few days, so you’ll have enough time to go through each step of the build process.

I recommend you use the inner box of the main eBike Kit box as good base for you to work on your eBike build… It makes it easy to see everything and protects your bike from the scratches.

Just undo the inner box and place down on floor and then carefully flip your bike upside down so it’s balanced as shown.

Using the inner box of the main kit box

Unfold it so that you have plenty of room to walk around it and work

Carefully flip your bike upside down and center it on the box as shown

Your bike should be more stable now, allowing for easier access to remove the front wheel

Now that you have your bike ready to be worked on… You will first need to loosen the front outer wheel axle nuts using an adjustable wrench.

You probably won’t need to take the bolts off the axle… Just loosen them enough so you can pull the wheel straight up and out of the forks dropouts. If you have a front brake on your bike, be sure to release the tension on it first to allow for enough clearance for the tire.

Once you have the tire removed, set the entire wheel aside for the next step

Your Bike Flipped Upside Down and ready to work on

Review each outer wheel axle nut before loosening

Use adjustable wrench loosen each wheel axle nut

Loosen them enough so you can pull the wheel straight up and out of the fork

Release your brakes tension using either quick release or undo the cable anchor bolt

Released brake tension should now allow more room for your wheel to be removed

Pull the wheel out once you have enough clearance

Then set the wheel aside as we begin the next step

In this step we’ll need to take the tire, tube, and inner rim strip off the old wheel and install these onto the new eBike wheel… Start by first deflating the air from old wheel which you can easily do by turning the cap around and press the center pin in a bit with it’s edge.

Once the tube is deflated, start pulling one side of the tire off the edge of the rim from the OPPOSITE side of the tire valve. As these tires have plenty of slack, it should be pretty easy… You can simply flip your wrench around to get under the edge a bit and start sliding to the side until the tire starts to roll off the rim.

Once you have the tire and tube off, you should also remove the inner rim strip and set aside, as this will most likely be needed on the new wheel… As these wheel often do not come with it.

Remove the cap from tire and deflate

You can flip the cap around press in to release the air

Start removing the tire from rim by starting on the the opposite side of the valve

You can slide the wrench under the tire get it loosened up and it should slide off from there

Carefully remove the tire and tube and set aside

Also be sure to remove the tires inner tube liner as we will need this

Taking a look at the new eBike wheel, locate where the valve opening is and then install the rubber rim strip making sure the valve hole is correctly lined up with the rims hole.

Now with the tube already inserted in your tire, and making sure the tread direction if specific is matching the rear tire… Insert the tubes valve into the rims valve hole and start rolling one edge of the tire on to the rim.

The tire and tube should be easy roll on by hand at this point. Once once you have a main edge on, start rolling the whole tire and tube onto the rim, paying special attention that the valve doesn’t pull out of the rim hole while you perform this task.

Since the eBike rim is high, the tire valve barely get’s through all the way, so I had to lightly grab the tip of it with some plyers and made sure it was pulled through as far as possible within the rim hole.

This specific eBike rim is rather deep and so the regular tube valve height does not stick out as far… Which doesn’t effect performance, but does make it a little harder to work with. There do exist longer valve tubes you can use, but that’s not really necessary at this point.

Once you have your tube and tire on, you should pump some a little air into the tire to maintain it’s shape and keep the valve in place… 20 LBs. of air should be enough for now.

Review your new eBike wheel and locate where the valve opening is

Install the Rubber Liner making sure the valve holes are lined up

With the tube already in the tire, insert the tubes valve into the rims valve hole and pull all the way though

Carefully roll tire onto rim making sure not to pinch the tube as you go

You might need to use some pliers to pull the valve all the way through the opening

Add some air to the tire and confirm valve is pulled all the way through

Review your new eBike wheel with tire installed... Nice Job!

Starting by checking that the wheels washers and nuts are loose enough so that you can easily slide them around and into position as you lower the wheel down into the dropouts of your bike frame.

Before you insert the wheel, make sure that the cable to the motor is on the correct side of the bike… For this eBike hub… It should be on the right hand side… Which can be confusing with the bike upside down… So be sure to orient yourself correctly via the photos before proceeding.

Insert wheels axle into the dropouts confirming the flat Axle washer is on the innermost side, followed by your bikes metal dropout, then the Torque Washer with the angled tab facing into the dropout opening, and then finally, with the Axle Nut on the outer most side.

Confirming that your wheels axle is inserted all the way into the dropout… Go ahead and tighten the outer Axle nut on each side enough to lock down the wheel and prevent it from coming out… Review your work before the next step.

Carefully place the Wheel into dropouts... It's heavy!

A close-up of the Left side of wheel, notice the washer placement!

A closer look at the right side of wheel, with the motor wire

Completed and ready for next step

Torque arms are there to save your motor, your bicycle, and your body from harm, so don’t skip this important step!

For this eBike wheel, since the cable to the motor is on the right hand side of the bike, we will install the Torque Arm onto the left hand side.

Unscrew the left Axle Nut all the way off and insert the Torque Arm’s main plate in the correct direction as shown in the photos, then you can put the Axle Nut back on and tighten it back up a bit to keep everything in place, but not a final tightening yet.

Next comes the secondary Torque Arm plate, which you lock into position using the included bolt. Make sure the nut is on the inside, toward the wheel, and tighten it up with your wrench just enough to keep the plates sliding against each other, but not a final tightening yet… Take a pause to review your set-up and make sure it matches the photos.

If it looks good, you are ready to do a final tightening of the left and right outer Axle nuts… You’ll want to tighten them down securely but not too much… A good strong turn with a 6" inch wrench is plenty for most eBike hub motors. Take another pause to review your set-up and make sure it matches the photos.

After the Axle nuts are tight, we can add the clamp, carefully threading it through the thin slot on the secondary Torque plate as shown in the photos… Once in place, tighten it up with a screwdriver taking up all the slack.

Now you can go back and tighten up the Torque plate bolt till it’s nice and tight and do another review of both the right and left sides… Confirm the left side has the Axle nut on the outside, then Torque Arm plate, then the Torque Washer facing the open dropouts, then the flat Axle washer.

If all looks good, you can reset your brakes and give them a quick visual scan to see how well they touch the rim. Most likely minor adjustments will be required before final completion… Make a mental note of anything that looks off for now and we will come back to it.

Place the left and right rubber nut caps back on, and then carefully flip your bike over, as it will now be much heavier with the new eBike wheel installed… And then take a moment to admire your work before moving on.

Unscrew the left Axle Nut all the way off

Insert the Torque Arm's main plate in the correct direction

Screw the Axle Nut back on and tighten up a bit to keep everything in place

Add the secondary Torque Arm plate and insert the included bolt

The bolt should have the nut on inside, facing the wheel

Tighten the bolt only enough so that the plates are touching but can still be moved

Review the Torque plates so far

Insert the clamp through the torque arms opening and start to tighten

Tighten the clamp so that there's no slack and it feels secure

Now go back and tighten the torque plate bolt until it's also firmly secure

Reinstall the left Axle Nut and tighten it down along with the right outer Axle nut

Here's a close up view of the torque plate sandwiched between the outer Axle Nut and the inner Torque Washer

After tightening your outer axle nuts, reset your released brakes

Review the brakes after resetting and visual scan to see if they touch the rim

Replace the right rubber nut cap

Replace the left rubber nut cap

Review your work... Whoa!... It's looking good!

To install a Wald front basket, follow the your specific instructions to assemble… Most will require you to install the brackets to your handlebar first and then to bolt the legs together just enough to hold it all together.

From there, you are going to want to try and get your basket as level as possible, so for now you can just “guesstimate” it until you attach each leg to the front fork.

The Wald 1392 basket I am using has two mounting holes located at the bottom of each leg, we are going to use the larger top hole for this build.

Starting with the right hand side, insert one of the M6 bolts through the top hole, paying special attention to sandwich the leg between the washers , then the lock washer just before the inner bolt. Tighten enough so that it’s all holding together well, but still allows for the bolt to rotate within the hole.

Now insert the bolt into the bottom most dropout eyelet making sure to screw it through until you see the bolt showing out the back of the eyelet

You will also notice that the arm will butt up against the bikes fork arm and should be really tight… Once that is complete, you can tighten up the inner nut on the bolt to lock it all into place.

Now repeat the same process for the left side, paying special attention to how the bolt comes right up against the Torque Arm plate. If you find you there’s not enough room for the bolt to get in straight, you may need to adjust the Torque Arm plate out of the way slightly by first releasing the camp on it.Once you have these bolts in, do a final repositioning of the basket so that is looks level to…Then tighten down all the screws on both legs and brackets.

Take a step back and admire your work before moving on.

Follow your baskets specific instructions

Loosely assemble your basket tight enough to hold it all together

Loosely tighten the attached brackets to your handlebar

Bolt the legs together, but only tighten enough to hold it together

A Stainless steel bolt, two flat washers, one lock washer, and one nut is required for each side

Preassemble the bolt, washers, and nut through the larger top leg hole

Screw the bolt into bottom most eyelet

Thread all the way through the eyelet so bolt shows on the back

Tighten up the inner bolt to lock it all into place

Left side bolt comes very close to Torque Arm plate

Thread all the way through so it shows on the back of the eyelet

Level out the basket before final tightening of everything

Tighten the bracket screws

Tighten all the leg screws

Review your work... Nice job!

Installation of the eBike hand brake is a must for safety sake, so DO NOT skip this step. As when engaged, it will automatically cut all power to the motor even if you have the throttled currently engaged.

Before you begin, you can turn the front wheel of your bike all the way to the right to maximize its stability while you work on the handlebar items.

If your bike does not currently have a front brake installed, you should go ahead and do that that now along with it’s cable and outer cable housing.

If your bike has handlebar grips, remove them both and set aside as we will not be using them moving forward. If they feel stuck, you can squirt some isopropyl alcohol under them to help lubricate.

If you currently have a hand brake installed, you will need change out with this new eBike one… So to take this one off… You first need to undo the cable to it by releasing tension on the outer adjustable barrel screw.

Loosen the locking nut and then screw the adjustable barrel all the way into the lever, aligning the open slots in the head and nut as shown… This will allow you enough slack to slide the cable out through the open slots.

Once the brake cable is pulled out out… You can just let it hang to the side for now Now you need to use a 5MM allen wrench to loosen the hand brake enough to slide it down off the end of the handlebar.

Comparing the new eBike hand brake, notice the extra wire that comes off the eBike one… This will be connected in later steps.

Setting up the new eBike hand brake is basically the reverse of taking it the old one off… Slide on the new hand brake into roughly the same position, then sit on the bike to see what angle feels right… Make any adjustments for best fit and then tighten the 5MM allen bolt.

Installing the cable into the new hand brake is the reverse of taking off the old one… First make sure the adjustable barrel screw is all the way inserted into the hand brake body with open slots lined up.

Slide the cable through these slots and set the end of the cable into the outer recessed tip of the screw.

To properly set the tension, unscrew the adjustable screw so it pulls away from the hand brake body until the cable has tension again. Once it feels about right, tighten the adjustable barrel screw nut so that it’s tight against the lever. This will lock it into position. Place the extra wire that comes off the hand brake into the front basket to get it out of the way for now.

To get the new gripper on, you should clean the bar with some alcohol and then squirt some alcohol into the gripper just before you push it onto the end. This will help lubricate enough to get it on and once the alcohol dries, will lock the gripper into place. Once the gripper is on, sit on the bike again to check the brake lever angle and comfort one more time… Make any adjustments for best fit.

Review the current brake handle before starting removal

Slide the current bikes gripper off

Turn the front wheel to the right to maximize stability

Screw bolt all the way in to the lever to release cable tension, aligning the open slots

Pull the cable completely out from end of the lever

Slide the wire out through the aligned slots in the bolt and locking nut

Carefully pull end of cable out

Use allen wrench to loosen the levers bolt

Loosen enough to slide the hand brake off the handlebar

Completely slide off the old hand brake and place aside

Comparing the hand brakes, notice the extra wire on eBike version

Slide the new eBike lever to the same position and angle of original

Once position is roughly correct, tight the bolt to lock into position

Installing the cable is reverse of taking it off

Reset the adjustable barrels to the original outer position and lock its nut, so the cable has tension again

Place the remainder of the cable into the basket to get it out of the way for now

Squirt some alcohol onto bar and into the gripper

Slide on the new gripper all the way onto the bar end

Sit on bike and check brake lever angle, make any adjustments for best comfort

Installation of the twist throttle body requires you to first remove the gripper on the right hand side. So do that now if you haven’t done so yet.

Slide the twist throttle body onto the handle bar and get a feel for it’s position… I recommend you sit on the bike to check the angle until comfortable, then secure it into place with a 3MM allen wrench.

Place the wire that comes off throttle body into the front basket to get it out of the way for now.

Remove the right hand side gripper

Slide the twist throttle body onto the right hand side handle bar

Sit on the bike to check the angle until comfortable

Secure it into place with a 3MM allen wrench

Place the wire that comes off throttle body into the front basket

Starting from the brake handle, use your zip ties to secure the electrical wire (not the cable) along the handlebar toward the center stem… I use 2 zip ties, placed about 5" apart… Securing the ties snug enough to keep the wire in place, but not so much that it’s pinching the the cable.

Confirm that your zip ties ends are facing away from the seating position… Then clip the ends of the zip ties leaving about a 1/8" to 1/4"… The zip ties ends may be sharp after this, so be careful.

Perform the same task with your throttle wire on the right handlebar… Again, using 2 zip ties about 5" and then stopping at the center stem. Again, being sure not to pinch the wire too tightly with your zip ties and then once in place you can clip the extra zip tie length off.

For the eBike wheel motor wire, starting from the hub, run the wire up and behind the right basket lower leg securing as you go up to the top. I use 3 zip ties on the leg… At the bottom and then midway, and then finally near the top but leaving room for it curve and bend toward the back… Once in place you can clip the extra zip tie length off.

At the top of the leg, again, being sure not to pinch too tightly, you’ll want to secure the wire to the bottom of the basket and then run it at a slight angle toward the back center of the basket as shown, and then secure… Once these are in place you can clip the extra zip tie length off.

Now you can place a piece of cardboard in your basket to give yourself a work area. Set the wires in the basket.

Starting from the brake handle side, secure the electric wire and avoid pinching

Secure the wire with 2 zip ties placed about 5" apart

Secure the zip ties facing forward

clip the ends of the zip ties leaving about a 1/8" to 1/4"

Secure the throttle wire on the right handlebar in the same manner

I used 2 zip ties and stop at the center stem

secure hub motor wire by running it up and behind the baskets right leg

Secure using 3 zip ties and then clip the endings

Showing clipped zip ties at bottom, then midway, and close to the top

secure the wire at the top of the leg to the bottom of the basket and clip

secure at the bottom back center of the basket and clip

A view from above showing wire angle and clipped ties

Another view showing motor wire coming up the basket leg and then along bottom

Before we start to connect the wires to the metal controller box, it’s helpful to both lock the front wheel down so it doesn’t move on you while working…And to create a workspace to organize and clearly identify all the wires and connectors.

First, wrap a bungee cord (or similar) around the front eBike wheel and the frame… Make sure it’s tight enough to prevent the wheel from moving on you.

Then place some cardboard into the bottom of your basket and star placing your wires in the basket be sure to run the brake wire below the stem and basket brackets and then up and over the top into the basket.

Run the throttle wire so that goes around the back side of the brake cable and then up and over into the basket along with the motor and brake wires.

Now you can prepare the 4' section of battery wire by securing a zip tie around it along with the other 3 wires currently going into the basket.

Place the zip tie near the back side of the basket area and don’t tighten too tight yet… We want it loose enough to allow wire movement but tight enough to secure them all together for now… Leave the extra zip tie length for now as we will cut it later.

Pull the battery wire up and over into the basket along with the other wires now… And then take a moment to review your work before proceeding.

Wrap a bungee cord around front wheel and bike frame

Place cardboard on bottom basket to create a workspace

run the brake wire to the left side below the stem and basket brackets

Run the brake wire up into the basket

Run the throttle wire so that goes around the back side of the brake cable and then up into the basket

take out the 4' section of wire for the battery

secure a zip tie around the battery wire along with the other 3 wires

wires are now ready for next step

You can now pull out the metal controller box and place it in the basket with the wires as we prepare to connect them.

Starting with the motor wire and the 3 thicker yellow, green, and blue wires that have green plastic insulator ends… Connect them together with the controller’s matching color wires, making sure that they are securely connected.

Then continue with the motor white plastic connector that has 6 thin wires… Securely snap the this connector into the matching controller connector.

Next, connect the wire coming off the hand brake lever with the thin red/black wires and black plastic connector… to either of the two matching red and black wire connectors coming from the controller box…. We are only using one brake lever so we only are connecting one of these.

Next is the wide but thin throttle connector with 6 wires… Securely snap it into its matching connector coming from the controller.

Do a final review to confirm the wires and connectors are correctly matched and secure before proceeding.

Set the metal controller box in the basket with the wires

Connect the motors thicker yellow, green, and blue wires together with the controller's matching wires

Confirm they are securely connected

Snap the white plastic connector coming from the motor wires to the controller's matching connector

Snap the hand brake lever wire into one of the controller's matching connector

Snap the brake wire into one of the controller's matching connector

Confirm all the wires and connectors are secure

Pull aside the controller’s red and black power wires which have greenish plastic coverings so you have some room to work, and then cut off the ends as close to possible to the connector.

Next, remove about 1/4" of plastic casing off each wire end… If you don’t have wire strippers, you can carefully score the outer sheathing with a pair of scissors or similar by applying very light pressure all the way around until the casing is slightly cut into and the end can be tugged off.

Once you have your exposed copper endings, give them a twist and then add a blue connector on each confirming that the wires go into the inner metal hole without strands becoming bent or ruffled.

Being careful not to cut through the connector casing, crimp each tight so the wire doesn’t feel loose and can’t easily be pulled out.

Use a proper crimping tool if you have one, otherwise use some hobby plyers to give you a strong crimp on each without cutting through the outer blue casing.

After confirming the connectors are secure, you can slide down the wider shrink tubing over both wires followed by the narrow ones over each wire… These should all be pushed down a bit to get them out of the way as we work on next steps.

Pull aside the thicker red and black power wires coming from the controller

Clip the connector ends off as we are not using them

Apply light pressure all the way around casing until end can be tug off

Removed 1/4" of plastic casing from each wire

Twist the copper ends of the wire so they are more rigid

Use a proper crimping tool if you have one...

Alternatively, you can use some plyers or other tool

Confirm each connector is securely connected

Slide down the wider shrink tubing over both wires

Then slide down each narrow shrink tubing over each wire tucking them inside the wider one

Now with scissors or equal… Carefully score through the outer casing of the battery wire about 1.5 inches from the end. Make sure you go all the way around being careful not to cut too deep.

Pulling off the cover will expose the internal wires and insulation material… Spread it out a bit so you can easily work on them.

You’ll now want to cut off all of the extra bits leaving just the 2 main wires we want to use…In this case, we are going to use the black and white wires…. Black for negative and white for positive.

Next you will need to strip off 1/4 inch of the outer casing for these two wires and give the copper wires ends a twisting as we did earlier.

Insert each of these wires into the blue connector ends… Matching black to black and white to red in my instance… Then you can crimp the connectors in the same manner we did earlier being careful not to cut through the connector casing.

Confirm each crimp is tight and that the wire doesn’t feel loose and can’t easily be pulled out.

Carefully score the wires outer casing about 1.5 inches from the end

Score the casing all the way around the wire then pull off

spread the internal wires and insulation material out a bit for easy access

Cut off extra bits leaving only the 2 wires

Strip off 1/4 inch of the outer casing and give the copper wires ends a twist

Match black to black and white to red and then crimp as before

Now you can slide up the thinner shrink tubing pieces we added earlier… Centering on each wire up and over the blue connectors.

Once positioned, you use should directional heat over these until they are shrunken down nice and tight.

If you don’t have a proper heat gun, use a blow dryer on its highest setting… Holding your hair dryer as close as possible to the tubing… It takes longer, but is much safer than trying to use a lighter flame which some people do.

Once these have been shrunken down nice and tight and given some time to cool off… You can slide up the wider shrink tubing over these… Making sure it comes up and over end of the cut wire covering.

Once properly positioned, use directional heat over this wider tubing until it has also shrunken down nice and tight.

Slide up the thinner shrink tubing over each blue connector and apply some directional heat to shrink

shrink tubing should be nice and tight after applying heat for a few moments

Slide the wider shrink tubing up and over both connectors, also covering the battery wire ending

Use heat again to shrink the tubing nice and tight

Review your wiring so far... Should be looking good now!

Before we can begin placing all the our wires and metal controller box into the component box we first need to make an opening at the bottom for all the wires to fit through.

Starting at the bottom of the open box (no tabs side), measure 1.75&quot inches from the right edge and make a indentation mark in the plastic with your hobby plyers or similar… And then measure over and make another mark at 2.5 inches.

Now carefully (trying not to split the plastic) cut through the edge and down as close to the bottom curved end of the box, clearing out any plastic bits along the way to create a rectangle opening.

You should also file down or sand these edges a bit to avoid any possible scuffing of the wires once they get inserted.

Pull out the component box and hobby plyers tool

Measure 1.75" inches from the edge and mark with your plyers

Then measure 2.5" from the edge and make a mark

Carefully cut out to bottom edge and snip out any extra plastic bits to make a rectangle opening

File or sand down any noticeable sharp edges

First organize the wires a bit keeping the power wire separated from the other wires, cinching together the ones we hooked in one grouping and the ones we didn’t use in another grouping.

Secondly, here is where you will need to raise your working area a bit so we can maximize the amount of wire we can fit into the box.

Use a scrap box of roughly equal height of your internal basket along with some cardboard for a base and align with the edge of right basket bracket…One the position seems good, tape it down so things don’t shift around on you.

Once you have a solid workspace set, place the metal controller box at top center of your plastic component box as shown and then tuck the unused wires under the power and other group of wires, so they are facing down.

Now tuck the power wire down and to the bottom right of the box… And then run it out of the opening of the box we cut earlier.

Next, you can run the remaining grouped wires over the power wire and down along the bottom of the box, parallel with the power wire, continuing up and to the right of the box.

Loop the these wires at the top and cinch with a zip tie to keep things in order and then loop back down to the bottom left of the box, using a few zip ties along the way to keep them in locked down.

Now as we get down to the last of the wire is where things get interesting… First, we need to add a loose zip tie around wires before they go into the box…This will help us keep things in order… Tie enough to keep them together, but loose enough to slide up… Keep the strap intact for now as we will cut it off later.

Now we need to go back to the box area and pull up the remaining wires and add a zip around them so we can loop up the right side of the box again.

cinch together the wires to keep things separated

Raise your work area with a box and cardboard base and tape down so it does not move

Align your workspace with your basket bracket to load as much wire as possible

Place the metal controller and wires into your component box and then tuck the unused wires under the others

Run the power wire down and along the bottom of the case and out the opening

Now you can place the remaining wires you cinched on top of the power wire and cinch it down again with zip ties

Continue running this group of wires along the bottom next to power wire and up to the right

Run the wires up and to the top of the box and then loop down and cinch with zip tie

Now you push the wires into the box a bit and continue running the bottom left

Continue the wires to the left bottom, cinch it with a zip tie

Then you can loop it back to the right and cinch it with a zip tie just before the opening

add a loose zip tie around wires going into our box to secure wires a bit but don't cut it yet

Review the remaining wire that we need to store in the box

Loop the remaining wire in the box up to the right

Then loop it back down and cinch it all down with a zip tie as best you can

Adjust wires a bit to properly fit them through the cut opening

Take your time to close the lid making sure it doesn't crimp any wires as you go

Securely snap the three working lock tabs into place and review your work

Before the final positioning of the component box you should remove the temporary workspace and box from the basket area and rest it on the brackets as you prepare the next tricky move.

Before you start this next step make sure you have a long zip tie ready (or a combined one) to lock the component box into position before beginning… Also reference the animation on how I twist the box to move it into position.

Remove the temporary workspace items and carefully set the component box on top of the brackets

Reposition the component box under the brackets and center

Secure in place using a zip tie on each side of the box

A front view of each side

Push extra wire length into the box making sure you can still easily complete turn your front wheel without straining them

Now you can secure the previous zip tie we used to hold things together

Now that wires are contained, let’s run the remaining power wire to the rear of the bike following the swooped bottom tube.

Making sure not to pinch your power wire, cinch along the bottom tube first and then run under along secondary swooped bottom tube, cinching lightly in 3 spots along the way… See the photos for more specifics.

Once you have them in place, you can tighten slightly and cut them, tucking the latching down and inward.

Continue to run the power wire through to the rear and go through the center of your rear seat tubes and then let the wire rest while we work on the next step.

cinch in the center of the bottom tube first

tuck under the secondary swooped bottom tube cinching in a few key places

Cinch just before the tube opening closes up

Then run the power wire through the center of your rear seat tubes

Review your completed wiring... It should look similar to the above image

Rear bikes racks come in all sorts of styles, but most have open rails and uneven surfaces like the one I am working on, which creates problems, because we really need the Bracket and Battery attached to be securely fastened to the rack and ideally, be level.

The simplest solution I came up with is to use a 1 x 4 wood… It works really well as a stiff base for the battery bracket while also protecting your battery from road debris flying up from the rear wheel through any rack openings… It also gives a genuine “beach cruiser vibe”.

You can paint it or give a little varnish to spiffy it up… For clarity, I used a clear varnish for the pictures below… But in the end, I decide to go with black for this specific bike… It looks cool either way!

Review the battery's bracket and how it might connect to your specific rear rack

I used a 15 inch 1x4 board with a light spray varnish for protection from the elements

Check the board with bracket and see how level it looks on your specific rack

I mine was off a bit so I added a 1 inch wide piece of extra 1x4 board I cut and propped under front

Once things looked level, I started by drilling a centered hole, 1/2 inch from the front of my board

Using the 2.5 inch 10/32 screw with a 3 inch wide bracer bar and lock nut at bottom

Insert screw with washer on top and bracer bar down at bottom under rails

A view from below showing how I use the bracer bar against the rack rails

Set your battery bracket so that its centered down the middle of the board

Insert 1 inch screw in front bracket hole and screw down but don't tighten down all the way yet

For the rear part of the bracket, I am using the two 2 inch screws using the 3 inch bracer bar in the rear and the 4 bar for the middle

I am using the 2 inch screws for both holes but with 3 inch bracer bar for the rear and 4 inch for the other

A view from below showing how I use the bracer bars with washers and lock nuts

Tighten the lock nuts down enough so that the bars bend slightly, which is pretty tight

Confirm all the bolts are nice and snug and voilà... You are done! Review your finished work... Nice job!

Slide your battery on to the bracket to test it's fit and see how cool it looks!

For the final wire connection, you will notice there’s a bunch of extra wire that comes from the battery bracket that we need to connect up with our power wiring coming from the controller box that also has extra length.

Before working on these wires, first remove the seat and seat post to make some room.

Review wires from battery and main power wire we need to connect

Remove the seat and seat post to gain better access to the wires

Align and tape the wires together length wise

Make a marking across both wires somewhere near the middle

Cut the wires where you marked them so that both ends meet up

Cut back the wire covering about 1 inch then strip and twist the ends of the wires

Crimp a connector to each of the positive and negative wires coming from the bracket

Slide up the longer, wider shrink tubing over either of the wires, slide up and out of the way

Slide on the smaller 1.5 inch shrink tubing up and over both of the connectors

Insert white wire and crimp, then slide down the smaller shrink tubing over it

Perform the same to black wires, adding the 1.5 inch shrink tubing first

Slide down shrink tubing over each connector and then heat until they shrink tight

Now slide down and center larger shrink tubing over the showing wirings and heat up

Reinsert your seat and post and then admire your work... Good Job!